The style secrets of the lapel

A notch above

Centuries ago, jackets were fastened all the way to the neck. Wearers would unhook the top buttons of their jackets and turn the collars down at an angle when they were indoors, away from the cold, or during temperature spikes. Although these jackets would now be considered archaic in design by modern sensibilities, they paved the way for the lapels we know and wear today.

Lapels are formed by the stitching together of both layers of a jacket’s front. Each type of lapel is generally paired with a certain jacket style, though this is more a general rule of thumb. The shawl lapel tends to be confined to smoking jackets and tuxedos, while the notch and peak lapels are far more versatile. The right pairing can give one that certain, elusive je ne sais quoi and can also complement your height or body type.

The perfect accent for lapels are lapel pins, or more traditionally, boutonnieres. These are typically composed of a single or bunch of blooms worn through the buttonhole on the left lapel. The dash of colour was a popular accessory of choice among the flamboyant bourgeouis, typically during summer.

Notch Lapel
The go-to for the everyday suit, the notch lapel rarely looks out of place on a solid single-breasted suit. Recall the protagonist in Tom Ford’s A Single Man? The black notch lapel jacket donned by Colin Firth in his role of university professor sits right at home with his character, who always looks immaculate.

The ease of wear and functionality of the notch lapel is undeniable, but it shows off its wild side when incorporated on a printed, textured jacket, shedding its practical, utilitarian reputation. Need to project a bigger presence? A 75- to 90-degree angled notch (where the collar meets the lapel) helps to visually beef up shoulder width.

Peak Lapel
The peak lapel is almost always found on double-breasted jackets, and also appears on the single-breasted suits of more fashion-forward individuals. It can elevate a solid jacket meant for everyday wear and should not be reserved for purely formal evening looks. The peak lapel is admittedly slightly trickier to pull off than the conservative notch lapel, but its upward points on a single-breasted jacket complements broader builds by directing the line of vision vertically.

Shawl Lapel
The shawl lapel, with its continuous curve and rounded edges, belongs on tuxedos and smoking jackets. Perhaps it’s due to the enduring image of a man lounging in a dimly lit gentleman’s club wearing such a jacket, complete with snifter in one hand and cigar in the other, that we’ve come to associate the shawl lapel with pursuits of the hedonistic variety. Meant to highlight the luxurious air they’re intended for, shawl lapels usually sport a different, shinier, finish from the rest of the jacket, which is usually made of velvet.